Lagniappe Debuts on Lake Street and Cajeta Coffee of White Bear Lake
Lagniappe Debuts on Lake Street and Cajeta Coffee of White Bear Lake
The Tap for Friday, October 11, 2024
Welcome to the Tap, Heavy Table’s biweekly guide to restaurants and culinary industry news for Minnesota and beyond. This newsletter is available in full to all of our $10/month subscribers. We’re here doing this work only because of your support - thank you for your support of this independent journalistic enterprise.
CHILI WEATHER
By James Norton
I don’t plug a lot of events in Heavy Table’s newsletter simply because it’s hard to be comprehensive (that would be an events calendar, a worthy enterprise but a whole undertaking unto itself) and it’s also hard to spotlight a single event while leaving others in the shadows. Every once in a while, however, something undeniably cool slides across my desk and I feel compelled to share the details with you, the hardest of the hard core of Minneapolis-St. Paul/Upper Midwestern/generally worldly food lovers.
I have a personal weakness for chili, having judged the Northern Clay Center chili cookoff on a number of occasions. The impact of a thoughtful, cheffed-up chili is hard to beat - it’s a hearty, down-home dish with a great deal of potential to be deepened, complicated, enriched and enchanted by good ingredients and inspired technique. [1]
Thus: a few quick words about the Chef Jack Chili Bowl, which takes place from 3-6pm at Saint Paul College on Sunday, Oct. 13. The event is hosted by Jason DeRusha and brings together 12 serious Twin Cities chefs (everyone from Thomas Boemer of Revival to Steven Brown of Tilia to Kate Romero of Oro by Nixta) to compete for the title of “Best F’N Chili.”
The cookoff honors Saint Paul College Culinary Arts alum Chef Jack Riebel, who was the driving force behind the reopening of The Lexington in St. Paul and who held positions at Butcher & the Boar, Dakota Jazz Club, and La Belle Vie.
Participating Chefs
Chef Torrance Beavers (Brunson's Pub)
Chef Britt Tracy
Chef Jametta Raspberry (House of Gristle)
Chef Thomas Boemer (Revival)
Chef Margaret and Charles Lovejoy (Lovejoy's)
Chef Thomas Begnaud (Mr. Paul's Supper Club)
Chef Kate Romero (Oro by Nixta)
Chef Richard Fisher (Performance Foodservice)
Chef Nat Moser (Dahlia)
Chef Tye Sullivan (Centro)
Chef Joel Albrecht (Butcher & the Boar)
Chef Steven Brown (Tilia)
Event Details
Date: October 13, 2023
Time: 3:00 PM - 6:00 PM
Location: Saint Paul College
Tickets: https://bit.ly/chefjackchilibowl
THE TAP
The Tap is the Heavy Table’s ongoing biweekly account of noteworthy Minnesota restaurant openings, closings, and future openings. Please send any tips to editor@heavytable.com. All dates are approximate based on best information available; opening dates, in particular, tend to shift around a lot.
NOW OPEN (Up to 3 Months)
Lagniappe, 2700 East Lake Street, Minneapolis ■ The Du Nord cocktail room has returned to Longfellow along with a New Orleans-inspired restaurant called Lagniappe. Opened October 11, 2024. Previewed by Eli Radtke in the October 11, 2024 edition of the Tap.
Momo Korean Egg Drop, 405 14th Ave. SE, Minneapolis ■ A franchise of the international Momo Korean Egg Drop chain has opened in Dinkytown, serving specialty egg sandwiches on milk bread. Opened September 25, 2024.
Small Hours, 2201 NE 2nd St., Minneapolis ■ A new bar built for wine drinkers and music lovers, operated by a sommelier and a songwriter. Small plates and conservas round out the menu. Opened September 21, 2024.
Hey Bear Cafe, 791 Raymond Ave., St. Paul ■ The former Foxy Falafel spot on Raymond will become a biscuit-driven breakfast and lunch spot. Opened September 18, 2024.
Kinzo Udon, 802 Washington Ave SE, Minneapolis ■ A self-service Japanese-inspired cafeteria focused on hand-crafted udon noodles made by a Kagawa, Japan-trained chef. Opened September 14, 2024.
Dexter’s, 3717 W. 50th St., Minneapolis ■ The latest Daniel del Prado restaurant has arrived at 50th and France, offering a “casual yet refined” concept including burgers and wings. Opened August 19, 2024.
Forepaughs, 276 Exchange St., St. Paul ■ The venerable Saint Paul institution has returned this summer after five years of hibernation. Jeremy Wessing (Pau Hana, Baldamar, Sea Change) will run the culinary side of things. Opened August 19, 2024.
Tender Lovin’ Chix, 2700 Lyndale Ave S., Minneapolis ■ We didn’t dig Fire and Nice Ale House when we visited it on our Lyndale Avenue Checklist; it has since shuttered its doors, to be replaced by the bricks and mortar location of a popular local fried chicken truck with support from Billy Tserenbat of Billy Sushi. Opened August 19, 2024.
Cross Bridge Noodle Restaurant, 2 E 26th Street, Minneapolis ■ The former Bad Waitress on Nicollet has become a new spot from Sushi Train co-owner Kevin Ni, serving crossing-the-bridge-noodles, a pho variant native to China's Yunnan province. Opened August 18, 2024.
Lynette, 3751 42nd Ave S., Minneapolis ■ Ben Siers-Rients, a mainstay of the well-regarded Lyn65 restaurant, has opened a new spot in the former Riverview Cafe and Winebar in South Minneapolis with partner Travis Serbus. Opened August 16, 2024. We checked out one of their soft openings.
Vinai, 1300 NE 2nd St., Minneapolis ■ After years of anticipation, Yia Vang’s Hmong restaurant will make its debut in the former Dangerous Man taproom in Northeast. Opened July 28, 2024.
Black Duck Spirits and Hearth, 2900 Johnson Street NE, Minneapolis ■ Smoked and/or wood-fired fare will be the driving culinary influence for this new spot by Fare Game food truck chef/owner Jason Sawicki. Opened July 22, 2024.
Local Rumor, 1811 Selby Ave., St. Paul ■ The COO of the now defunct Keg and Case food hall is trying out some much smaller digs: the former founding location of the Blue Door jucy lucy burger chain. Opened July 19, 2024.
Restaurants at North Loop Green (Hope Breakfast Bar, Salt & Flour, Bassett Hound), 350 North 5th Street, Minneapolis ■ A new partnership between restaurateur Brian Ingram and the upcoming North Loop Green development features three new restaurants, including a new location of Ingram’s Hope Breakfast Bar and his new Italian classics concept Salt & Flour, and the North Loop Green-operated bar and casual restaurant Bassett Hound (named for nearby Bassett Creek). Bassett Hound opened July 5, 2024; Salt & Flour and Hope to open this fall.
Calling all chili enthusiasts and supporters of the culinary arts! Get ready for the Chef Jack Chili Bowl, a unique event where 12 of the Twin Cities' top chefs will face off in a fiery competition to create the "Best F'N Chili."
The Chef Jack Chili Bowl features chefs from Butcher & the Boar, Revival, Dahlia, and Oro by Nixta to name a few. Online tickets are available until Saturday night or at the door (if space allows).
CLOSED AND CLOSING (Up to 3 Months)
Tattersall Distilling, Minneapolis ■ After a controversial rent dispute / possible scam, this foundational craft distilling company is shutting down its Minnesota location at the end of the year. Its River Falls, Wisc. location remains open. Closing December 2024.
Chicago’s Taste Authority ■ Rent increases doomed one of the metro’s leading Chicago dog meccas. Closed September 21, 2024.
Vellee Deli (Northeast location) ■ The Northeast Minneapolis location of this local Asian-Mexican chain has shut down; the downtown location is set to reopen. The fate of its Brooklyn Park location is unclear. Closed September 10, 2024.
Barrio (Lowertown, Saint Paul) ■ The once popular outpost of a local Mexican-inspired chain has called it quits amid a general struggle for foot traffic and life in downtown Saint Paul. Closed September 6, 2024.
Kim’s ■ Uptown’s retooled Sooki & Mimi closed shortly after employees voted to unionize. We wrote about the closure in the Aug 30, 2024 edition of the Tap. Closed August 30, 2024.
Cafe Pizzaria ■ A low-key mainstay in Bloomington for 70 years, Cafe Pizzaria shut abruptly to “retire and have more time to focus on family.” Closed August 28, 2024.
Gray Duck Tavern ■ As per the Pioneer Press, Gray Duck Tavern was shut down abruptly in mid-July. Closed July 13, 2024.
UPCOMING (Most Imminent to Furthest Out)
Eloise, 332 Broadway Ave S, Wayzaya, Minn. ■ A new sister restaurant to the existing and popular Grocer’s Table, Eloise will be focused on evening gatherings, “elevated food,” and cocktails. Opening October 11, 2024.
Caphin, 4503 France Avenue South, Minneapolis ■ A hip Vietnamese coffee truck is getting bricks-and-mortar space in the former Jinx Tea and Folly Coffee spot in South Minneapolis. Opening Fall 2024.
Razava Bread Company, 685 Grand Avenue, St. Paul ■ This upcoming bakery is a partnership between Steve Baldinger (whose family ran Baldinger Bakery in St. Paul) and Omri Zin-Tamir of the Bakery on 22nd St. Will feature challah, bagels, pita and more. Read our interview with Omri Zin-Tamir in the May 13, 2022 edition of the Tap. Opening Fall 2024.
Grackle, 11852 Elm Creek Boulevard North, Maple Grove, Minn. ■ Hot on the heels of Starling, another suburban bird-themed restaurant shooting for “neighborhood, but upscale”: Grackle, from the team behind Margie's Kitchen & Cocktails in Andover. Opening October 18, 2024.
Jade Dynasty, 600 West Lake Street, Minneapolis ■ A former owner of the well-regarded Hong Kong Noodles restaurant is teaming up with a former Mystic Lake Casino restaurant manager to open a dim sum, hot pot, and Cantonese restaurant in the former Fuji Ya space on Lake Street. Opening Fall 2024.
Minari, 323 13th Ave. NE., Minneapolis ■ The former Erté & the Peacock Lounge space will become a Korean-inspired temple of noodles, dumplings, and dim sum controlled by the burgeoning Daniel del Prado group and headed by Chef Jeff Watson. Seating capacity is large, 220 guests in total. Opening November 15, 2024.
La Madre, 205 Park Ave., Minneapolis ■ The floor level of The Vicinity apartments will soon offer “a chef-curated menu providing a modern take on traditional Mexican entrees, small plates, and shareables with plenty of seafood and exotic Mexican cuisine options” operated by Abe Ponce of La Tapatia in Roseville. Opening Fall 2024.
Khue’s Kitchen, 799 University Ave. W, St. Paul ■ The former Ngon Bistro will see life again as pop-up restaurant Khue’s Kitchen, formerly at Bar Brava, takes over the space. Chef Eric Pham is the grandson of Lung Tran, who opened the locally legendary Quang on Nicollet Avenue. Opening delayed by fire.
Aster House, 25 SE Main St., Minneapolis ■ New-school supper club with a local food edge by the team behind Aster Cafe and Jefe Urban Cantina, helmed by Chef Josh Jones with Myriel’s Karyn Tomlinson acting as menu consultant and mentor. Opening October 2024.
Saturday Dumpling Company, 519 Central Ave. NE, Minneapolis ■ The popular subscription-based dumpling company will be moving its production operation to a space with 45 indoor and 10 outdoor seats, in the former Glam Dolls Donut shop space. The restaurant will serve dumplings in three styles (steamed, pan fried, and deep fried) with pork, beef, chicken, and vegetarian fillings, plus a filling of the month. The menu will also feature scallion pancake burritos and rice bowls. MSP Mag is following their opening process in detail. Opening Fall 2024.
Pearl & the Thief and Big E, 250 Portland Avenue, Minneapolis ■ A reboot of Justin Sutherland’s Stillwater-based restaurant, Pearl & the Thief, was slated to go into the O2 Luxury Tower along with another location for the chef’s egg-based sandwich shop, Big E. The initial press release promised “an exceptional culinary experience” plus “a high-end whiskey bar, craft cocktails, and approximately 2,000 SF of outdoor patio space.” After Sutherland was charged with threatening violence against his girlfriend in July, O2 developer Sherman Associates has refused on multiple occasions to comment on the future of the project. Stacy Brooks reported on this story in the September 27, 2024 edition of the Tap. Opening Delayed.
Le Burger 4304, 4304 Upton Av. S., Minneapolis ■ Roast chicken, soft-serve ice cream, and most of all carefully turned-out burgers will be the heart of the menu for this new spot by two Bachelor Farmer alums in partnership with John Gross of Kado no Mise and Sanjusan. Opening Fall 2024.
Cafe Yoto, 548 North Washington Ave., Minneapolis ■ A casual, counter service-driven Kado No Mise spinoff by Chef Yo Hasegawa, riffing on that restaurant’s internal pop-up concept Yo Monday Cafe. Opening October 2024.
Russell's Bar and Grill, 656 Grand Ave., St. Paul ■ The former Tavern on Grand space will reopen as a restaurant with contemporary American classics and some supper club favorites. Opening November 2024.
Burnt Chicken, 858 Payne Ave., St. Paul ■ A popular if poorly named fried chicken pop-up is going bricks and mortar in the former East Side Bar space. Opening November 2024.
Ate Ate Ate, 1178 Burnsville Center, Burnsville, Minn. ■ Yet another Asian-focused food hall is coming to the metro, anchored by the Asian food store Ensom Market. The spot is giving some Market at Malcolm Yards vibes. As per the press release: “The 13,320 square foot location will be home to a diverse roster of nine food vendors, plus a bar and beer pull wall, an event space, and regular entertainment offerings.” The project is spearheaded by Akhtar Nawab, a Michelin-awarded chef, cookbook author, and TV personality. Opening delayed, likely 2024.
Tim McKee Restaurants at The West Hotel, 167 N. First St., Minneapolis ■ A basque-inspired charcoal-driven restaurant and a Mediterranean bakery will be part of a new North Loop hotel in the former [Commutator Building](https://northloop.org/history-of-the-commutator-building/) operated by Salt Hotels. Opening 2024.
The Rabbit Hole (no relation to The Rabbit Hole at Midtown Global Market), 411 N. Washington Ave., Minneapolis ■ A “high-energy sports bar with an eclectic comfort food menu” will be opening in the former Axebridge Wine Co. space, with 40 TV screens and live DJs. (Axebridge closed June 30, 2024; Mike Norton profiled it in the Tulip and Schooner for November 10, 2023.)
Animales BBQ and Burger Co., 241 Fremont Ave. North, Minneapolis ■ The two well-regarded Jon Wipfli food trucks, Animales BBQ and Animales Burger Co., will unite in a bricks-and-mortar effort located in the former Royal Foundry Distillery in the Harrison neighborhood of Minneapolis. Opening early 2025.
THE REBIRTH OF COOL
The return of Du Nord’s Cocktail Room and the opening of Lagniappe are a milestone for post-Uprising Longfellow.
By Eli Radtke
“Alone we are strong, Together we are magical” is the neon purple sign that greets you as you walk into the new Du Nord Cocktail room and its sister restaurant, Lagniappe. Du Nord has seen its share of hard times: its cocktail room closed after the turbulent May 2020 uprising and COVID-related mandatory shutdowns.
After some time away, Chris and Shanelle Montana recommitted to the Longfellow neighborhood, selecting the historic Coliseum building on East Lake Street, just blocks from their previous location. They have stayed involved in the neighborhood, and when The Heavy Table spoke with Shanelle a few months ago, she said they never even considered moving anywhere else.
Longfellow, and specifically this side of Longfellow, has had some rough times in the past few years. The burned out 3rd Precinct building sits not even a block away, a reminder of some of those times. With the opening of the Cocktail Room, Lagniappe, and the renovation of the Coliseum building, Longfellow is taking strides towards coming back.
As we entered the space a couple weeks ago for a media preview, the Du Nord space stunned us with a veritable aquarium of windows along the western wall adorned with heavy curtains letting in slivers of sunset. Hanging lights added to the warmth throughout.