Heavy Table Makes a Move and Luminous Cafe
The Tap for Friday, August 2, 2024
Welcome to the Tap, Heavy Table’s biweekly guide to restaurants and culinary industry news for Minnesota and beyond. We’re here doing this work only because of your support - thank you for your support of this independent journalistic enterprise.
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HEAVY TABLE MAKES A MOVE
By James Norton
If you’re a Heavy Table subscriber, you’ve probably gotten used to seeing our emails arrive via a cute little indie newsletter service. But as is so often the case, said indie service will be chopped up for parts by a large corporation; we were given a month to find a new home.
As of this week, we’ve moved our virtual printing press over to Substack. I’ve been using Substack for my other newsletter (THE COOKBOOK TEST) and it’s a remarkably agile and well-designed platform - the publishing interface is smooth and intuitive, the newsletters look fantastic, and there’s a sense of interwoven community that helps readers connect with terrific creators while allowing small publications to lift one another up.
The service is also seamless - subscribers can pay through Substack, and archives are collected there, too.
If you’re backing us through Patreon, don’t worry about a thing - you’ll keep getting newsletters without a break in service, your benefits remain as they were before, and you can continue paying through the Patreon platform.
The big takeaway from all of this? I’m really excited to see what happens when we bring our talent and content to a new, modern, powerful publishing platform. Cheers to the future!
THE TAP
The Tap is the Heavy Table’s ongoing biweekly account of noteworthy Minnesota restaurant openings, closings, and future openings. Please send any tips to editor@heavytable.com. All dates are approximate based on best information available; opening dates, in particular, tend to shift around a lot.
NOW OPEN (Up to 3 Months)
Vinai, 1300 NE 2nd St., Minneapolis ■ After years of anticipation, Yia Vang’s Hmong restaurant will make its debut in the former Dangerous Man taproom in Northeast. Opened July 28, 2024.
Black Duck Spirits and Hearth, 2900 Johnson Street NE, Minneapolis ■ Smoked and/or wood-fired fare will be the driving culinary influence for this new spot by Fare Game food truck chef/owner Jason Sawicki. Opened July 22, 2024.
Local Rumor, 1811 Selby Ave., St. Paul ■ The COO of the now defunct Keg and Case food hall is trying out some much smaller digs: the former founding location of the Blue Door jucy lucy burger chain. Opened July 19, 2024.
Restaurants at North Loop Green (Hope Breakfast Bar, Salt & Flour, Bassett Hound), 350 North 5th Street, Minneapolis ■ A new partnership between restaurateur Brian Ingram and the upcoming North Loop Green development features three new restaurants, including a new location of Ingram’s Hope Breakfast Bar and his new Italian classics concept Salt & Flour, and the North Loop Green-operated bar and casual restaurant Bassett Hound (named for nearby Bassett Creek). Bassett Hound opened July 5, 2024; Salt & Flour and Hope to open this fall.
Asian Duck, 4010 E 46th Street, Minneapolis ■ Lao/Thai favorites served up with joy and aplomb in a tiny little space at 46th Street and Minnehaha. Opened July 3, 2024. Reviewed in the July 26, 2024 edition of the Churn.
Oh Crêpe!, 4408 France Avenue South, Minneapolis ■ Claire Corvaisier has converted her mobile Breizh Crepes project into a bricks-and-mortar serving classic sweet crepes and savory crepes, plus some ice cream concepts and crepe cakes. Opened June 26, 2024.
Tap In, 2618 Lowry Avenue N., Minneapolis ■ This newly opened neighborhood gathering spot and bar is ambitious about bringing people together, but keeps the food simple with salads, bowls, and sandwiches. Opened June 22, 2024.
Darling, 3311 E. 25th St., Minneapolis ■ Former private chefs for Prince (and co-owners of Peoples Organic) have teamed up with the owner of Hi-Lo Diner to transform the former Birchwood space into a new breakfast and lunch spot. Opened June 14, 2024.
Duluth’s Best Bread (Superior, Wisc. location), 1418 Tower Ave., Superior, Wisc. ■ A third location of this well-regarded French- and German-inspired Duluth bakery known for its croissants, pretzels, and monster sweet rolls has opened across the state line in Wisconsin. Opened May 28, 2024.
CLOSED AND CLOSING (Up to 3 Months)
Tattersall Distilling, Minneapolis ■ After a controversial rent dispute / possible scam, this foundational craft distilling company is shutting down its Minnesota location at the end of the year. Its River Falls, Wisc. location remains open. Closing December 2024.
Gray Duck Tavern ■ As per the Pioneer Press, Gray Duck Tavern was shut down abruptly last weekend. Closed July 13, 2024.
Eli's Food & Cocktails ■ Open in downtown Minneapolis since 1960, Eli’s Food and Cocktails called it quits this year after one last Pride celebration. Relatedly, Business Journal reports that sister businesses Eli’s East and Beast BBQ are for sale.
Peppers and Fries ■ The Longfellow neighborhood burgers and burritos mainstay is shutting its bricks and mortar and going food truck-only. Closed June 29, 2024.
Tavern on Grand ■ The legendary and long-lived Tavern on Grand, home to one of the state’s best-known walleye sandwiches and a claimant to the title of most-walleye-selling restaurant in the world, is calling it quits after more than 30 years. Closed early June, 2024.
Italian Eatery and Un Dito ■ Open since 2016 and often packed to capacity, South Minneapolis favorite Italian Eatery stunned the public by suddenly announcing its closing this week. Closing between late May and mid-June.
Protagonist ■ An oddball but ambitious concept restaurant located on the southern stretch of Lyndale Avenue, Protagonist is shutting down but looking for a possible future location. Closed May 21. We profiled it as part of the Lyndale Avenue Checklist.
UPCOMING (Most Imminent to Furthest Out)
Caphin, 4503 France Avenue South, Minneapolis ■ A hip Vietnamese coffee truck is getting bricks-and-mortar space in the former Jinx Tea and Folly Coffee spot in South Minneapolis. Opening Summer 2024.
Tim McKee Restaurants at The West Hotel, 167 N. First St., Minneapolis ■ A basque-inspired charcoal-driven restaurant and a Mediterranean bakery will be part of a new North Loop hotel in the former [Commutator Building](https://northloop.org/history-of-the-commutator-building/) operated by Salt Hotels. Opening 2024.
Razava Bread Company, 685 Grand Avenue, St. Paul ■ This upcoming bakery is a partnership between Steve Baldinger (whose family ran Baldinger Bakery in St. Paul) and Omri Zin-Tamir of the Bakery on 22nd St. Will feature challah, bagels, pita and more. Read our interview with Omri Zin-Tamir in the May 13, 2022 edition of the Tap. Opening Summer 2024.
Grackle, 11852 Elm Creek Boulevard North, Maple Grove, Minn. ■ Hot on the heels of Starling, another suburban bird-themed restaurant shooting for “neighborhood, but upscale”: Grackle, from the team behind Margie's Kitchen & Cocktails in Andover. Opening Summer 2024.
Hey Bear Cafe, 791 Raymond Ave., St. Paul ■ The former Foxy Falafel spot on Raymond will become a biscuit-driven breakfast and lunch spot. Opening Summer 2024.
Dexter’s, 3717 W. 50th St., Minneapolis ■ The latest Daniel del Prado restaurant is coming to 50th and France, offering a “casual yet refined” concept including burgers and wings. Opening Summer 2024.
Lynette, 3751 42nd Ave S., Minneapolis ■ Ben Siers-Rients, a mainstay of the well-regarded Lyn65 restaurant, will be opening a new spot in the former Riverview Cafe and Winebar in South Minneapolis with partner Travis Serbus. Opening Summer 2024.
Jade Dynasty, 600 West Lake Street, Minneapolis ■ A former owner of the well-regarded Hong Kong Noodles restaurant is teaming up with a former Mystic Lake Casino restaurant manager to open a dim sum, hot pot, and Cantonese restaurant in the former Fuji Ya space on Lake Street. Opening Summer 2024.
Crossing Bridge Noodle Restaurant, 2 E 26th Street, Minneapolis ■ The former Bad Waitress on Nicollet will become a new spot from Sushi Train co-owner Kevin Ni, serving crossing-the-bridge-noodles, a pho variant native to China's Yunnan province. Opening Summer 2024.
Ate Ate Ate, 1178 Burnsville Center, Burnsville, Minn. ■ Yet another Asian-focused food hall is coming to the metro, anchored by the Asian food store Ensom Market. The spot is giving some Market at Malcolm Yards vibes. As per the press release: “The 13,320 square foot location will be home to a diverse roster of nine food vendors, plus a bar and beer pull wall, an event space, and regular entertainment offerings.” The project is spearheaded by Akhtar Nawab, a Michelin-awarded chef, cookbook author, and TV personality. Opening Summer 2024.
Tender Lovin’ Chix, 2700 Lyndale Ave S., Minneapolis ■ We didn’t dig Fire and Nice Ale House when we visited it on our Lyndale Avenue Checklist; it has since shuttered its doors, to be replaced by the bricks and mortar location of a popular local fried chicken truck with support from Billy Tserenbat of Billy Sushi. Opening Summer 2024.
Minari, 323 13th Ave. NE., Minneapolis ■ The former Erté & the Peacock Lounge space will become a Korean-inspired temple of noodles, dumplings, and dim sum controlled by the burgeoning Daniel del Prado group and headed by Chef Jeff Watson. Opening August 2024.
La Madre, 205 Park Ave., Minneapolis ■ The floor level of The Vicinity apartments will soon offer “a chef-curated menu providing a modern take on traditional Mexican entrees, small plates, and shareables with plenty of seafood and exotic Mexican cuisine options” operated by Abe Ponce of La Tapatia in Roseville. Opening August 2024.
Khue’s Kitchen, 799 University Ave. W, St. Paul ■ The former Ngon Bistro will see life again as pop-up restaurant Khue’s Kitchen, formerly at Bar Brava, takes over the space. Chef Eric Pham is the grandson of Lung Tran, who opened the locally legendary Quang on Nicollet Avenue. Opening August 2024.
Forepaughs, 276 Exchange St., St. Paul ■ The venerable Saint Paul institution is due to return this summer after five years of hibernation. Jeremy Wessing (Pau Hana, Baldamar, Sea Change) will run the culinary side of things. Opening August 2024.
Aster House, 25 SE Main St., Minneapolis ■ New-school supper club with a local food edge by the team behind Aster Cafe and Jefe Urban Cantina, helmed by Chef Josh Jones with Myriel’s Karyn Tomlinson acting as menu consultant and mentor. Opening September 2024.
Saturday Dumpling Company, 519 Central Ave. NE, Minneapolis ■ The popular subscription-based dumpling company will be moving its production operation to a space with 45 indoor and 10 outdoor seats, in the former Glam Dolls Donut shop space. The restaurant will serve dumplings in three styles (steamed, pan fried, and deep fried) with pork, beef, chicken, and vegetarian fillings, plus a filling of the month. The menu will also feature scallion pancake burritos and rice bowls. Opening Fall 2024.
Pearl & the Thief and Big E, 250 Portland Avenue, Minneapolis ■ A reboot of Justin Sutherland’s Stillwater-based restaurant, Pearl & the Thief, will be going into the 02 Luxury Tower along with another location for the chef’s egg-based sandwich shop, Big E. Press release promises “an exceptional culinary experience” plus “a high-end whiskey bar, craft cocktails, and approximately 2,000 SF of outdoor patio space.” We've queried the developer for comment regarding the arrest of Sutherland. Opening Fall 2024.
Le Burger 4304, 4304 Upton Av. S., Minneapolis ■ Roast chicken, soft-serve ice cream, and most of all carefully turned-out burgers will be the heart of the menu for this new spot by two Bachelor Farmer alums in partnership with John Gross of Kado no Mise and Sanjusan. Opening Fall 2024.
Eloise, 332 Broadway Ave S, Wayzaya, Minn. ■ A new sister restaurant to the existing and popular Grocer’s Table, Eloise will be focused on evening gatherings, “elevated food,” and cocktails.
Russell's Bar and Grill, 656 Grand Ave., St. Paul ■ The former Tavern on Grand space will reopen as a restaurant with contemporary American classics and some supper club favorites. Opening November 2024.
Stonegarden, 5401 Chicago Avenue at the Pearl Apartments, Minneapolis ■ A former Baldamar chef, Andrew Novak, is opening a chic brunch-focused restaurant with a mimosa program. Opening November 2024.
NATURALLY SWEET
Persian baked goods made with natural ingredients make Luminous Cafe shine.
BY STACY BROOKS
As pundits bemoan the death of malls and wax nostalgic about late 20th-century mall culture, the disappearance of defunct tenants (remember Sears and Sam Goody?) has made way for unique local businesses. Nestled into a first-floor storefront in Edina’s Southdale Center is Luminous Cafe, a warmly-lit space with teapots and glassware lining the walls, a pastry case filled with slices of cake, and boxes of baklava and elegant pastel-hued cookies.
Luminous Cafe owner Ellie Danesh, who makes all of the cafe’s baked goods on site, has taken a winding journey to Southdale Center. She worked as a software engineer in her native Iran for 17 years before immigrating to Edmonton in 2015. In Canada, she did online coursework to pivot to a new career in food safety and landed a job with the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA), which is similar to the United States’ FDA. She relocated to Minnesota in 2022, and while waiting for her US work permit, she started catering for friends and family. However, the enterprise quickly outgrew her home kitchen. She ended up in Southdale Center by happenstance: she and her husband happened to walk by the space, decided the location looked right, and opened Luminous Cafe in June 2023.
“I thought because I’m new in this city, and the US, and nobody knows me, I’d better have a coffee shop in the mall,” says Danesh. “People pass and see me, and I get customers through that.”
BASED ON BAKLAVA
Danesh has a deep background in cooking and baking—her mother runs an arts institute in Iran that offers culinary classes, and during her time in Canada she worked in a Hungarian bakery. The Swiss rolls and tiramisu in the pastry case nod to European baking traditions, but the majority of the cafe’s items are Persian, including baklava, cookies, and barbari, a flatbread topped with sesame seeds.
“Traditional Persian baking is, just don't use artificial!” says Danesh. For example, her barbari doesn’t include preservatives and is baked fresh every Tuesday and Friday. Saffron gives some of Danesh’s cookies a distinctive yellow hue, and pink cakes rely on fruit for flavor and color. Baklava is beautifully garnished with chopped nuts and rose petals.
“This baklava is really different because I use more honey than sugar, so the taste is not too sweet,” says Danesh. The Persian baklava is her signature item, made with layers of almond, pistachio, and almond-saffron fillings.
Kolompeh, date-filled cookies, are her most popular item, selling out every week. The cookies are sweetened only with dates and contain no added sugar, and they’re richly spiced with cinnamon, cardamom, clove, nutmeg, and saffron. Also popular are the chickpea cookies, which are made with roasted chickpea powder, butter, and sugar. The tiny chickpea cookies are shaped using a special tool Danesh brought from Iran—it’s basically a row of about a dozen clover-shaped, spring-loaded cutters affixed to a bar, making it easy to cut out a pan’s worth of cookies in a few seconds.
Since the chickpea cookies are made without flour, they’re gluten-free, like many traditional Persian sweets. Tapping into the demand for gluten-free treats, Danesh offers a gluten-free cookie assortment with pistachio, walnut, almond, and coconut-based cookies.
THE FUTURE OF MALLS?
Currently, Luminous Cafe has a menu of espresso drinks and tea in addition to baked goods. Danesh plans to add loose-leaf Persian tea soon, and she’d also like to serve traditional ice cream made with saffron, pistachios, and almonds.
Danesh appreciates the warm welcome she’s received at Southdale Center. “I have customers who don’t know anything about Persian food, but I think they are really open minded and they accepted it,” she says. “I'm really happy in the mall because I have regular customers and people can see us.”
However, at some point she would like to expand beyond the mall. She envisions an additional location with a larger kitchen, both so she can make a wider variety of items, especially breads, and expand into wholesale—she’s already had a grocery store ask to carry her baklava.
As evidenced by the people who are drawn to the cafe by the smell of freshly-baked barbari, it seems that reports of the death of malls are greatly exaggerated. Malls are still places where people gather, where they discover new things, where they have a good time—and Southdale Center’s Luminous Cafe shows mall patrons the potential of a better, baklava-filled future.
ELSEWHERE ONLINE
Eater looks at how Democratic veep contender and Minnesota Governor Tim Walz can't stop talking about (local) food. Chicago's Taste Authority is moving out of South Minneapolis, citing high rents. Sahan Journal profiles the newly opened Vinai. And Sharyn Jackson writes for the Strib about where to eat when taking the new Borealis rail line from Saint Paul to Chicago (including Big River Pizza, above). Plus! Stacy Brooks writes in Racket about the 40th anniversary of Sebastian Joe’s, including fantastic origins stories for both the Pavarotti and Nicollet Avenue Pothole flavors.
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