Spoon and Stable turns 10; Moscow on the Hill turns 30
The Tap for Friday, November 8, 2024
Welcome to the Tap, Heavy Table’s biweekly guide to restaurants and culinary industry news for Minnesota and beyond. This newsletter is available in full to all of our $10/month subscribers. We’re here doing this work only because of your support - thank you for your support of this independent journalistic enterprise.
SHARING (THE WORK OF) THANKSGIVING
By James Norton
I’ve been cooking scratch Thanksgivings since the early oughts, when, as an editor for a Boston newspaper, I found myself on breaking news duty and therefore unable to fly home for the holiday. Somewhat to my surprise, the ritual of creating a scratch holiday meal in an otherwise empty apartment for myself was incredibly soothing, and the leftovers sustained me for days to come. I’ve been making Thanksgiving ever since, some years two or even three times over depending on how many Thanksgivings-in-February we’re celebrating and what the menu happens to be.
That said: not everyone is the sort of cooking masochist that I am, and not every year in conducive to the kind of shopping, prep, serving, and cleanup that a home-cooked multi-course meal entails. Fortunately, our metropolitan area offers a lot of easy ways out, everything from full-on dinners available for takeout to restaurants serving special meals.
TAKE-OUT OPTIONS
Vikings and Goddesses make some of the best pies in the state, and they're taking pre-orders until Sunday, Nov. 24 at 6pm. Pickup on Nov. 26 or 27 at multiple pickup spots throughout the metro including Bloomington.
The Cooks | Bellecour Thanksgiving menu is available for preorder and will be available for pick up at any of the three Cooks | Bellecour locations November 26 – 27 between 8am-4pm.
The menu features:
Pumpkin Mousse Pie: House-made flaky pie crust filled with silky pumpkin mousse and topped with oat streusel, pepitas, whipped cream, and bits of gold leaf. $38.
Brie en Croute (above): A decadent holiday appetizer made of French Brie cheese, topped with caramelized onion and apple and covered with golden puff pastry crust. Heating instructions included. $50
Black Pepper Garlic Dinner Rolls: House-made 'Milk Bread' rolls are lightly sweet, with hints of garlic and black pepper. Pack of 9. Order freshly baked or frozen rolls ready proof and bake. $8.50 baked. $7.25 frozen.
Cooks | Bellecour , 877 Grand Avenue, St. Paul, 651.228.1333 | 210 N. 1st Street, Minneapolis, 612.223.8167 | 3934 Market Street, Edina, Minn., 952.285.1903
Chowgirls offers a classic, locally-sourced Thanksgiving menu with full vegan options. Chowgirls By-the-Box features Mezze, Cruditè, and Cheese & Charcuterie boxes and locally sourced Thanksgiving choices from side dishes like vegan stuffing, to a roasted Ferndale Market turkey, to pies. On the vegan side of things, the menu includes an organic, vegan Mushroom & Fennel Bake with locally grown cremini mushrooms, walnuts, and roasted fresh fennel.
Other vegan choices include gravy, stuffing, cranberry relish, mashed potatoes, green bean casserole, and vegan caramel-apple pie.
Orders must be completed by Friday, November 22 for Delivery or pick-up at Chowgirls in Northeast Minneapolis on Wednesday, November 27. Chowgirls, 336 Hoover St NE, Minneapolis, 612.203.0786
Rustica is offering preorders to pick up Wednesday, Nov. 27, including pumpkin pie ($40), potato rolls ($10 for 6), pumpkin pear spread ($9), maple pecan butter ($4), shortbread cookies ($7 for 6), and molasses crinkle cookies ($10 for 6). Rustica, 3220 West Lake Street, Minneapolis, 612.822.1119 or 200 Southdale Center, Suite A, Edina, Minn., 952.417.6199
Parlour St. Paul is offering pumpkin and apple pies to go for $25 per pie. Parlour St. Paul, 267 7th St W, St Paul, 651.207.4433
RESTAURANT OPTIONS
Tullibee at the Hewing Hotel is doing a coursed, family-style Thanksgiving with both traditional and vegan menus for $65pp with an optional wine pairing for an additional $38pp. Hewing Hotel, 300 N Washington Ave, Minneapolis
Tattersall Distilling in River Falls, Wisc. is serving a buffet of traditional offerings for $36pp (adults) or $18 (kids under 16), with kids under 4 served for free. The distillery will also serve flights of three Thanksgiving-themed cocktails for $10 each from Nov. 20-24 at the distillery and on Nov. 25 at Stillwater Proper. These include:
Pumpkin Old Fashioned: Pumpkin-infused straight rye, pumpkin spice syrup, aromatic bitters
Thanksgiving Stuffing Shrub Collins: Apple and butter-washed aquavit, celery shrub, soda, thyme
Nana’s Cranberry Sour: Gin, orange liqueur, bitter orange liqueur, cranberry liqueur, cranberry-rosemary syrup, lemon
Tattersall Distilling, 1777 Paulson Rd Suite 3, River Falls, Wisc.
Stillwater Proper, 227 S Main St, Stillwater, Minn.
A turkey dinner with all the trimmings plus a soul and pop performance by Jearlyn and Fred Steele brings joy to the Dakota this year, with doors opening at 5:30pm and the show starting at 7. Preorders are required at $40 per ticket, dessert and drinks available a la carte. The Dakota, 1010 Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis, 612.332.1010
The St. Paul Grill (the restaurant at the Saint Paul Hotel) will serve a three-course meal on Thanksgiving from 11am-7pm. Adult meals start at $40pp and kids' meals are $25pp. Starters include pumpkin bisque soup, Caesar salad, and acorn squash salad while entrees include a traditional turkey dinner with all the fixings, honey glazed ham, prime rib, and seafood options. Dessert is a piece of pumpkin pie, pecan pie, or a turtle tart, and reservations are recommended. St. Paul Grill, 350 N Market St, St Paul, 651.224.7455
Breva Bar & Grill is serving "turkey breast roulade, focaccia stuffing, green beans almondine, candied sweet potato brûlée and pumpkin cheesecake with chantilly cream" for $32pp. Call 612.353.6207 to make reservations for groups of 6 or more. Breva Bar & Grill, 1115 2nd Ave. South, Minneapolis
Holman's Table at the Saint Paul Airport offers a three-course set menu from 11am-2:30pm on Thanksgiving day with a choice of starter, a traditional turkey dinner or vegetarian pasta entree, and a choice of dessert for $50pp, with a kids' option available for $19pp. Holman's Table, 644 Bayfield St, St Paul, 612.800.5298
Kendall's Tavern & Chophouse will offer a Thanksgiving buffet from 11am-4pm for $40pp ($20 for kids 4-11, with kids under 3 eating free.) Meal features freshly baked breads, seasonal fresh fruit, roasted butternut squash and quinoa salad, fall harvest mixed greens, roasted root vegetables, green bean casserole, mashed potatoes, cornbread stuffing, baked macaroni & cheese, roast turkey and gravy with cranberry sauce plus hand carved meats including glazed ham and herb crusted pork loin with amaretto sauce. Kendall's Tavern & Chophouse, 12800 Bunker Prairie Rd NW, Coon Rapids, Minn., 736.951.7225
Jax Cafe offers a traditional Thanksgiving dinner ($52 for adults, $20 for kids) featuring soup or salad, roasted turkey, sage dressing, cranberry sauce, whipped potatoes and gravy, roasted yams, corn O’Brien, and pumpkin pie. Jax Cafe, 1928 University Ave NE, Minneapolis, 612.789.7297
If you're looking for a luxe Thanksgiving experience, the Nordic Village on the rooftop of the Four Seasons is offering a three-course Thanksgiving meal for $175pp (adults) or $80pp (kids). Prepaid reservations available for parties of 2-8 people. The meal includes soup and salad, roasted turkey, sourdough stuffing, roasted yams, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, roasted brussels sprouts, and pie. Or you can dine on a Thanksgiving buffet inspired by Mediterranean flavors at Mara at the Four Seasons ($145pp, adults or $45pp, kids) with prepaid reservations for parties of 1-6 people. Four Seasons, 245 Hennepin Ave, Minneapolis, Minn., 800.819.5053
THE TAP
The Tap is the Heavy Table’s ongoing biweekly account of noteworthy Minnesota restaurant openings, closings, and future openings. Please send any tips to editor@heavytable.com. All dates are approximate based on best information available; opening dates, in particular, tend to shift around a lot.
NOW OPEN (Up to 3 Months)
La Estancia, 4751 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis ■ This new Argentinian and Uruguayan steakhouse has the unusual distinction of NOT being operated by Daniel del Prado, whose restaurant group has otherwise been expanding at an exponential pace. La Estancia’s owners hail from Argentina and Uruguay respectively and aim to make their menu accessible at multiple price points. Opened November 2, 2024.
La Madre, 205 Park Ave., Minneapolis ■ The floor level of The Vicinity apartments offers “a chef-curated menu providing a modern take on traditional Mexican entrees, small plates, and shareables with plenty of seafood and exotic Mexican cuisine options” operated by Abe Ponce of La Tapatia in Roseville. Opened November 1, 2024.
Grackle, 11852 Elm Creek Boulevard North, Maple Grove, Minn. ■ Hot on the heels of Starling, another suburban bird-themed restaurant is shooting for “neighborhood, but upscale”: Grackle, from the team behind Margie's Kitchen & Cocktails in Andover. Opened October 18, 2024.
Aster House, 25 SE Main St., Minneapolis ■ New-school supper club with a local food edge by the team behind Aster Cafe and Jefe Urban Cantina, helmed by Chef Josh Jones with Myriel’s Karyn Tomlinson acting as menu consultant and mentor. Opened October 16, 2024.
Eloise, 332 Broadway Ave S, Wayzaya, Minn. ■ A new sister restaurant to the existing and popular Grocer’s Table, Eloise is focused on evening gatherings, “elevated food,” and cocktails. Opened October 14, 2024.
Lagniappe, 2700 East Lake Street, Minneapolis ■ The Du Nord cocktail room has returned to Longfellow along with a New Orleans-inspired restaurant called Lagniappe. Opened October 11, 2024. Previewed by Eli Radtke in the October 11, 2024 edition of the Tap.
Momo Korean Egg Drop, 405 14th Ave. SE, Minneapolis ■ A franchise of the international Momo Korean Egg Drop chain has opened in Dinkytown, serving specialty egg sandwiches on milk bread. Opened September 25, 2024.
Small Hours, 2201 NE 2nd St., Minneapolis ■ A new bar built for wine drinkers and music lovers, operated by a sommelier and a songwriter. Small plates and conservas round out the menu. Opened September 21, 2024.
Hey Bear Cafe, 791 Raymond Ave., St. Paul ■ The former Foxy Falafel spot on Raymond will become a biscuit-driven breakfast and lunch spot. Opened September 18, 2024.
Kinzo Udon, 802 Washington Ave SE, Minneapolis ■ A self-service Japanese-inspired cafeteria focused on hand-crafted udon noodles made by a Kagawa, Japan-trained chef. Opened September 14, 2024. Reviewed in the November 1, 2024 edition of the Churn.
Dexter’s, 3717 W. 50th St., Minneapolis ■ The latest Daniel del Prado restaurant has arrived at 50th and France, offering a “casual yet refined” concept including burgers and wings. Opened August 19, 2024.
Forepaughs, 276 Exchange St., St. Paul ■ The venerable Saint Paul institution has returned this summer after five years of hibernation. Jeremy Wessing (Pau Hana, Baldamar, Sea Change) will run the culinary side of things. Opened August 19, 2024.
Tender Lovin’ Chix, 2700 Lyndale Ave S., Minneapolis ■ We didn’t dig Fire and Nice Ale House when we visited it on our Lyndale Avenue Checklist; it has since shuttered its doors, to be replaced by the bricks and mortar location of a popular local fried chicken truck with support from Billy Tserenbat of Billy Sushi. Opened August 19, 2024. Reviewed briefly in our hot chicken roundup from the October 25, 2024 edition of the Tap.
Cross Bridge Noodle Restaurant, 2 E 26th Street, Minneapolis ■ The former Bad Waitress on Nicollet has become a new spot from Sushi Train co-owner Kevin Ni, serving crossing-the-bridge-noodles, a pho variant native to China's Yunnan province. Opened August 18, 2024.
Lynette, 3751 42nd Ave S., Minneapolis ■ Ben Siers-Rients, a mainstay of the well-regarded Lyn65 restaurant, has opened a new spot in the former Riverview Cafe and Winebar in South Minneapolis with partner Travis Serbus. Opened August 16, 2024. We checked out one of their soft openings and reviewed them in the Nov. 1, 2024 edition of the Churn.
Restaurants at North Loop Green (Hope Breakfast Bar, Salt & Flour, Bassett Hound), 350 North 5th Street, Minneapolis ■ A new partnership between restaurateur Brian Ingram and the upcoming North Loop Green development features three new restaurants, including a new location of Ingram’s Hope Breakfast Bar and his new Italian classics concept Salt & Flour, and the North Loop Green-operated bar and casual restaurant Bassett Hound (named for nearby Bassett Creek). Bassett Hound opened July 5, 2024; Salt & Flour and Hope to open this fall.
CLOSED AND CLOSING (Up to 3 Months)
Tattersall Distilling, Minneapolis ■ After a controversial rent dispute / possible scam, this foundational craft distilling company is shutting down its Minnesota location at the end of the year. Its River Falls, Wisc. location remains open. Closing December 2024.
Sugar & Salt (formerly La La Ice Cream) ■ After eight years in business, this popular ice cream shop called it quits, citing the decline of Uptown. We featured them in our lengthy report on Uptown, published earlier this fall. Closed October 4, 2024.
Chicago’s Taste Authority ■ Rent increases doomed one of the metro’s leading Chicago dog meccas. Closed September 21, 2024.
Vellee Deli (Northeast location) ■ The Northeast Minneapolis location of this local Asian-Mexican chain has shut down; the downtown location is set to reopen. The fate of its Brooklyn Park location is unclear. Closed September 10, 2024.
Barrio (Lowertown, Saint Paul) ■ The once popular outpost of a local Mexican-inspired chain has called it quits amid a general struggle for foot traffic and life in downtown Saint Paul. Closed September 6, 2024.
Kim’s ■ Uptown’s retooled Sooki & Mimi closed shortly after employees voted to unionize. We wrote about the closure in the Aug 30, 2024 edition of the Tap. Closed August 30, 2024.
Cafe Pizzaria ■ A low-key mainstay in Bloomington for 70 years, Cafe Pizzaria shut abruptly to “retire and have more time to focus on family.” Closed August 28, 2024.
UPCOMING (Most Imminent to Furthest Out)
Razava Bread Company, 685 Grand Avenue, St. Paul ■ This upcoming bakery is a partnership between Steve Baldinger (whose family ran Baldinger Bakery in St. Paul) and Omri Zin-Tamir of the Bakery on 22nd St. Will feature challah, bagels, pita and more. Read our interview with Omri Zin-Tamir in the May 13, 2022 edition of the Tap. Opening Fall 2024.
Jade Dynasty, 600 West Lake Street, Minneapolis ■ A former owner of the well-regarded Hong Kong Noodles restaurant is teaming up with a former Mystic Lake Casino restaurant manager to open a dim sum, hot pot, and Cantonese restaurant in the former Fuji Ya space on Lake Street. Opening Fall 2024.
Minari, 323 13th Ave. NE., Minneapolis ■ The former Erté & the Peacock Lounge space will become a Korean-inspired temple of noodles, dumplings, and dim sum controlled by the burgeoning Daniel del Prado group and headed by Chef Jeff Watson. Seating capacity is large, 220 guests in total. Opening November 15, 2024.
Khue’s Kitchen, 799 University Ave. W, St. Paul ■ The former Ngon Bistro will see life again as pop-up restaurant Khue’s Kitchen, formerly at Bar Brava, takes over the space. Chef Eric Pham is the grandson of Lung Tran, who opened the locally legendary Quang on Nicollet Avenue. Opening delayed by fire.
Saturday Dumpling Company, 519 Central Ave. NE, Minneapolis ■ The popular subscription-based dumpling company will be moving its production operation to a space with 45 indoor and 10 outdoor seats, in the former Glam Dolls Donut shop space. The restaurant will serve dumplings in three styles (steamed, pan fried, and deep fried) with pork, beef, chicken, and vegetarian fillings, plus a filling of the month. The menu will also feature scallion pancake burritos and rice bowls. MSP Mag is following their opening process in detail. Opening December 2024.
Francis Burger Joint (second location), 3900 East Lake Street, Minneapolis ■ Northeast’s popular vegan burger and chicken sandwich spot is set to open a second location in the Longfellow neighborhood of Minneapolis in the former home of Peppers and Fries. Opening Fall 2024.
Pearl & the Thief and Big E, 250 Portland Avenue, Minneapolis ■ A reboot of Justin Sutherland’s Stillwater-based restaurant, Pearl & the Thief, was slated to go into the O2 Luxury Tower along with another location for the chef’s egg-based sandwich shop, Big E. The initial press release promised “an exceptional culinary experience” plus “a high-end whiskey bar, craft cocktails, and approximately 2,000 SF of outdoor patio space.” After Sutherland was charged with threatening violence against his girlfriend in July, O2 developer Sherman Associates has refused on multiple occasions to comment on the future of the project. Stacy Brooks reported on this story in the September 27, 2024 edition of the Tap. Opening Delayed.
Le Burger 4304, 4304 Upton Av. S., Minneapolis ■ Roast chicken, soft-serve ice cream, and most of all carefully turned-out burgers will be the heart of the menu for this new spot by two Bachelor Farmer alums in partnership with John Gross of Kado no Mise and Sanjusan. Opening Fall 2024.
Cafe Yoto, 548 North Washington Ave., Minneapolis ■ A casual, counter service-driven Kado No Mise spinoff by Chef Yo Hasegawa, riffing on that restaurant’s internal pop-up concept Yo Monday Cafe. Opening Fall 2024.
Russell's Bar and Grill, 656 Grand Ave., St. Paul ■ The former Tavern on Grand space will reopen as a restaurant with contemporary American classics and some supper club favorites. Opening November 2024.
Burnt Chicken, 858 Payne Ave., St. Paul ■ A popular if poorly named fried chicken pop-up is going bricks and mortar in the former East Side Bar space. Opening November 2024.
Ate Ate Ate, 1178 Burnsville Center, Burnsville, Minn. ■ Yet another Asian-focused food hall is coming to the metro, anchored by the Asian food store Ensom Market. The spot is giving some Market at Malcolm Yards vibes. As per the press release: “The 13,320 square foot location will be home to a diverse roster of nine food vendors, plus a bar and beer pull wall, an event space, and regular entertainment offerings.” The project is spearheaded by Akhtar Nawab, a Michelin-awarded chef, cookbook author, and TV personality. Opening delayed, possibly 2024.
Tim McKee Restaurants at The West Hotel, 167 N. First St., Minneapolis ■ A basque-inspired charcoal-driven restaurant and a Mediterranean bakery will be part of a new North Loop hotel in the former [Commutator Building](https://northloop.org/history-of-the-commutator-building/) operated by Salt Hotels. Opening 2024.
The Rabbit Hole (no relation to The Rabbit Hole at Midtown Global Market), 411 N. Washington Ave., Minneapolis ■ A “high-energy sports bar with an eclectic comfort food menu” will be opening in the former Axebridge Wine Co. space, with 40 TV screens and live DJs. (Axebridge closed June 30, 2024; Mike Norton profiled it in the Tulip and Schooner for November 10, 2023.)
Animales BBQ and Burger Co., 241 Fremont Ave. North, Minneapolis ■ The two well-regarded Jon Wipfli food trucks, Animales BBQ and Animales Burger Co., will unite in a bricks-and-mortar effort located in the former Royal Foundry Distillery in the Harrison neighborhood of Minneapolis. Opening early 2025.
A DECADE OF SPOON AND STABLE
The landmark North Loop restaurant celebrates 10 years this month, and looks ahead to the 10 to follow.
By Stacy Brooks
Spoon and Stable is one of the heavy hitters in the Twin Cities restaurant scene, earning a James Beard award for chef and owner Gavin Kaysen in 2018 and garnering praise from national media outlets. The restaurant’s 10-year anniversary on November 16 is a noteworthy milestone—only about 35 percent of restaurants make it to the decade mark. Clearly there’s something about Spoon and Stable’s Midwestern-focused, French-inspired fine dining approach that resonates with diners. The Heavy Table recently sat down with Kaysen to learn more about its story.
Kaysen explains that Spoon and Stable has a formalized process for critiquing new dishes based on a series of seven questions:
Is it accessible?
Is it true to who we are?
Is it our collective voice?
Is it technically sound?
Is there an element of the Midwest?
Is it financially right for the business?
Is it delicious?
“We started [the process] the first year we were open, and mainly it was because we have a rather collaborative approach in terms of how we create dishes,” says Kaysen. “If one of the answers was no, then either the dish would go back to the drawing board, or if there was an explanation as to why [it was a] no and it made sense, then it could potentially stay, but you have to kind of sell it.”
Some aspects of the rubric have remained constant over Spoon and Stable’s run, but other aspects have gradually shifted, particularly the concepts of accessibility and the restaurant’s identity and collective voice.
“Who we are today is different, slightly, than who we were 10 years ago, just because the palate has changed,” says Kaysen. “With education, with travel, with stories, with media and social media and all of that—I just think people's palates always evolve.”
“The evolution of the dining scene that I've seen, at least in the Twin Cities, is there seems to be more of an acceptance of diverse cuisine, which is pretty cool,” he continues, noting that Spoon and Stable alums Yia Vang (Union Hmong Kitchen and Vinai), Diane Moua (Diane’s Place), and Eric Pham (Khue’s Kitchen) have gone on to launch their own projects.