Yemeni Coffee Shops and a Kids in the Kitchen Cooking Series

The Churn for Friday, June 27, 2025

In this week’s edition of The Heavy Table’s Churn newsletter, we check out two of the new Yemeni-style coffee shops that are changing the way locals drink their morning (and evening) cups of joe, and introduce a new Heavy Table co-sponsored cooking series that gets kids into the kitchen. Heavy Table exists solely because of the support of subscribers like you - thanks for making our work telling the stories of food and drink in the Upper Midwest possible.

KIDS IN THE KITCHEN

This spring’s series of Heavy Table and bakehouse-produced cooking classes sold out in a jiffy - instructors including author Eric Dregni (Never Trust a Thin Cook), Solveig Tofte (Sun Street Breads) and Rachel Anderson (Vikings and Goddesses) brought deep knowledge and a lot of fun to classroom, and delicious flavors were savored by all.

Now we’re back with a new series of four classes, on Saturday in August (Aug. 2, 9, 16, and 23). “Kids in the Kitchen” features cross-generational instructor teams teaching some incredibly delicious (and practical) baking skills to kids and parents alike.

Join Chef Lachelle Cunningham on Aug. 2, James Norton (Heavy Table) on Aug. 9, Ginny Snow (bakehouse) on Aug. 16, and Martha Durrett (Cauldron Bagels) on Aug. 23. Classes are aimed at kids aged 9-13 but older kids and grownups will also find plenty to learn and enjoy.

We’ll share more details in the weeks to come, but we can provide a bit of info on James Norton and son Josiah Norton’s class: It’s called “Buttermilk Breakfasts,” and the father-son duo will teach students how make painstakingly perfected (but easy to make) pancakes and flaky, rich buttermilk biscuits that will start any morning out right.

More details and tickets can be found over on the bakehouse website: https://gatheringsbybakehouse.square.site/classes

RELISH RETURNS
New Episodes of the Twin Cities PBS Global Food Series, Hosted by Chef Yia Vang, Now Available to Stream on the PBS App

This story is sponsored by Twin Cities PBS.

Yia Vang (chef and restaurateur at Vinai) / Photo by Kelsey Lee for Twin Cities PBS

The sixth season of “Relish,” the James Beard Media Award-nominated food and culture series from Twin Cities PBS, recently premiered six new episodes that explore the ties between food, heritage and identity.

Mike Brown (Travail), Yia Vang (Vinai), and Bob Gerken (Travail) Photo by Uche Iroegbu for Twin Cities PBS

Hosted by Chef Yia Vang, the series continues its mission to unearth the personal stories behind the dishes we love. One standout episode features a shift from fine dining to family kitchens with Chef Mike Brown of Travail Kitchen and Amusements.

Mike Brown (Travail) / Photo by Uche Iroegbu for Twin Cities PBS

Brown—alongside fellow Travail Chef Bob Gerken—is known for pushing culinary boundaries with imaginative, upscale fare. But in this episode, the chefs hit pause on the fancy food and return to their roots, stepping into the kitchen with their moms to cook childhood favorites. For Brown, that means showcasing a deeply flavorful, slow-simmered pot of refried beans.

Mike Brown (Travail) and his mother, Lupe Brown / Twin Cities PBS

Here’s his take on a family classic:

Mike Brown’s Refried Beans
Serves a crowd; perfect for sharing

1 lb dry pinto beans, soaked overnight and drained
3 Tbsp pork lard, for sautéing
3 Tbsp shallots, diced
3 Tbsp garlic, diced
3 Tbsp poblano pepper, diced
3 Tbsp raw bacon, diced
1 tsp white pepper
1 tsp black pepper
½ tsp cumin
2 tsp garlic powder
1 Tbsp chicken base (e.g., Better Than Bouillon)
4–5 cups water
3 Tbsp hot pork lard (for finishing)
Kosher salt, to taste

Yia Vang (chef and restaurateur at Vinai), Mike Brown (Travail), and Lupe Brown Photo credit: Twin Cities PBS

Soak & Drain Beans: Soak beans overnight. Drain when ready to cook.

Sauté the Base: In a large pot, heat 3 tbsp pork lard. Add shallots, garlic, poblano, bacon, and spices. Sweat gently until soft and golden.

Add Liquid: Add 4 cups water and chicken base; stir to dissolve.

Add Beans: Add soaked beans. Add more water to cover by 1 inch. Place a parchment “cartouche” directly on the surface to limit evaporation.

Simmer: Cook gently 4–6 hours, stirring occasionally. Reduce until liquid sits 3–4 inches below the beans.

Mash & Finish: Heat 3 tbsp pork lard separately until hot, then pour into beans. Mash about 75% of the beans—leave some texture.

Season: Add kosher salt to taste. Serve warm.

Burrito and salsa by Mike Brown (Travail) / Photo by Uche Iroegbu for Twin Cities PBS

Season 6 of “Relish” showcases dishes that honor family legacies and cultural pride—from King Cake and kimchi jjigae to sourdough and sambusas. Whether fancy or familiar, each recipe is a conversation starter. Catch Chef Mike Brown’s episode and stream all episodes on the PBS App beginning on June 23. Episodes will also air weekly on TPT 2.

For more, visit TPT.org/Relish.

HEAVY TABLE’S HOT FIVE

#5 Cafe Con Leche at Guavas Cuban Cafe | Minneapolis

James Norton / Heavy Table

Everything is in balance with this perfect cafe con leche from Guavas Cuban Cafe - the bitter and the sweet, the milk and the coffee, the liquid and the foam. It’s a terrific beverage for just about any time of day. – James Norton